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Posted June 30, 2021in Food Dude

New Flavors on Ingersoll

A Brazilian place becoming Thai makes sense to travelers.  Ingersoll Avenue reflects the collective conscience of Des Moines’ westside. In the late 1950s, traditional restaurants like Sherry’s, Noah’s and the Imperial House entertained adults while their disgruntled teenagers turned to the sanctuary of fast food. Henry’s, the precursor to McDonald’s

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Posted June 02, 2021in Food Dude

The Baja and the Horn

Gursha Ethiopian Grill and Baja Cocina supply the newest examples of the metro’s growing diversity. The cuisine of Des Moines continues to become more exotic. Two of the world’s greatest peninsulas, nearly half a planet away from each other, supply the newest examples of the metro’s growing diversity. Between them,

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Posted May 05, 2021in Food Dude

Restaurants with vibes

A friend who was back in town recently wanted to meet “someplace with a distinctive vibe, like Rusty Scupper and Lloyd’s London Grill back in their day.” I suggested Fresko, a new Gateway restaurant that swept many CITYVIEW “Best Of Des Moines” awards this year including for best new restaurant,

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Posted March 31, 2021in Food Dude

Mulberry Street Tavern

Mulberry Street Tavern, in the newish Surety Hotel, covers the world to provide a cross sampling of marvelous amenities from both small villages and large cities. Surety is a part of Aparium, a Chicago based hotel group specializing in repurposing old and historic buildings. The rooms here are handsome if

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Posted March 03, 2021in Food Dude

Italian House is full of surprises

There are few restaurant genres that Des Moines expects to conform to formula. Seafood cafés here are all over the place, from the air freighted opulence of Splash to the northwest Mexican bounty of Isla del Pacifico, to the fried wonders of Seafood Trap, the it’s-all-about-the-fish attitude of Waterfront, the

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Posted February 03, 2021in Food Dude

Innovation in the year of the virus

“They say that time changes everything, but actually you have to change things yourself.” — Andy Warhol Business schools are already teaching classes about coping with viral challenges. This year will probably be studied for a long time. Two new restaurants that opened during the epidemic throes stand out for

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Posted January 06, 2021in Food Dude

New frontiers for tamales and pho

Tamales are corn’s most divine application. They are to tortillas as fentanyl is to street heroin— 60 times more potent, flavor wise, and relieving. One hundred years ago, the tamale queens of San Antonio became a famous tourist attraction. Tamales have been harder to find in Des Moines since Rosa

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Posted December 02, 2020in Food Dude

Dirt Burger wins CITYVIEW’s Ultimate Burger Challenge

Comedian Shirley Fong-Torres liked telling her audiences that “the Chinese word for vegan translates as lousy hunter.” Vegan comedian Dick Gregory told folks that “only the most evolved level of animal intelligence has been able to raise edible foods.” Those two opinions represent 1,000 years of arguments as to whether

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Posted November 04, 2020in Food Dude

Unrvld and Opa!

It takes a brave heart to open a restaurant business in the reigning realm of fear and seclusion. One also needs a quality product to peddle. Fortunately, the owners of Unrvld and Opa have both. Unrvld is a Texas-style barbecue that opened in July on EP True Parkway. They have

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Posted September 30, 2020in Food Dude

Capriotti’s and La Familia upgrade genres

A friend of mine, who teaches law in France every summer, says the success of Subway in that country baffles her. She asked her French friends “Why?” They told her they loved “the American concept of personal choice.” Subway invented an assembly line system in which the diner makes all

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