David Baruthio at Waterfront West Des Moines

4/2/2025

David Baruthio is Des Moines’ most traveled top chef. A native of Strasbourg, France, the “cradle of great chefs,” he began working in Michelin star restaurants at age 15 under Hubert Maetz, and then under Gordon Ramsey at Aubergine, his breakout restaurant in Chelsea, England. 

Baruthio brought new ideas about dining to town more than two decades ago. Since arriving here to help Steve Logsdon launch Lucca, he has, with several peripatetic breaks, built a most interesting group of Iowa restaurants. 

We asked him to lunch, and he asked to meet at Waterfront in West Des Moines. 

What are David’s favorite Des Moines restaurants that he does not own or manage?

“Waterfront is exactly in my comfort zone as a French chef. I love that I can walk in on the market side and see all the fresh fish and seafood that I might order and have cooked. That is exactly what I believe a great dining experience should begin with. I was excited today to see John Dory in the market. I love John Dory.”

John Dory is also known as “St. Peter’s fish” and because of that is most popular during Lent in Europe. Baruthio ordered it seared but was told the chef thought it was too thin for searing, so we both had it fried, deliciously. 

“I also love Tumea & Sons. They represent what I love in a restaurant — a father and three sons managing a great restaurant that keeps prices low enough to serve their whole community, not just wealthy clients. Of course, I love Lucca, it does the same thing — chic and inexpensive — and Steve changed my life. He brought me to Iowa. I met Sara (Hill) there.  

“I love what Dom (Iannarelli) is doing at Prime & Providence. I can’t afford to eat there too often, but he is taking the steakhouse experience to another level.” 

Baruthio is best known locally for his Baru66, a Windsor Heights café that drew the likes of Thomas Keller there to dine. Why did he close it? 

“I was getting restless, and I got really lucky. I sold it just months before COVID shut everything down. I was not so lucky after that when I opened a restaurant in Switzerland and basically got trapped there because of COVID shutdowns. I didn’t qualify for (government) relief either, because I had only two months of books to show.” 

How did he make it through the shutdowns? 

“I am proud that we kept everyone on payroll by selling take-out and catering. I had a lot of spare time though, so I wrote a book then.”

I have read the galleys of “Let Food Bring Us Together” and am quite impressed. The photos and production values are first class, yet it will be self-published this summer. How did he pull that off?

“I had great help, and the Portuguese company I worked with is top end. I had three great photographers for the three sections — Morocco, Switzerland and Iowa. Jason Walsmith of the Nadas (Iowa rock band) did the Morocco photos.”

Baruthio opened Café Madeleine this winter in the Fleming Building downtown. It’s a niche restaurant, open only Tuesday through Thursday with a fixed price menu.

“I discovered the site when it was a Paleo café. Then I learned the building was built by Daniel Burnham, the same architect as the Flatiron Building (in New York City). I saw the future there with the tallest skyscraper in Iowa going up across the street. When I saw the tiled floor, which someone had covered with carpet, I considered it a personal sign. Its design is the fleur de lis, the same as the kings of France.

“I wanted to return to Des Moines with a more intimate concept. I hate getting slammed and stuck in the kitchen. I wanted to interact with guests. The size (18-24 seats) allows that. I can cook, serve and converse with guests.

“I also wanted to create an upscale dinner, 10 courses or more, at an affordable price. I think $109 is affordable for that many courses. I liked the concept at Alinea but wanted to keep prices much lower. It’s a labor d’amour.”

(Alinea is a restaurant group in Chicago with three fixed price options on different levels. Dinners there range from $210-495 per person.) 

“I also wanted to share my life experience. Our first event was ‘French decadent,’ then ‘Italian fine dining.’ We have planned series on ‘French Christmas markets,’ ‘Summer Harvest,’ ‘Luxury Seafoods,’ ‘Creative Summer Fests’ and a ‘Tour de France’ with dishes from each region of France.”

Why Tuesday through Thursday?

“I am mostly in northern Iowa now. I have restaurants in Mason City, Clear Lake and Belmond, and Sarah’s family farm is there, where we source much of what we serve.”

What about those restaurants?

“We reopened Surfside, a bistro by the Surf Ballroom. Near the farm in Belmond, we took over the Belmond Golf and Country Club. Marc Navailles (Nomad, Purveyor) runs the restaurant there. I run the golf club. It’s odd. I don’t understand golf. I am a soccer player. But I love the golf course. All that green is magic to me.

“In Mason City, we have Bistro Nineteen in Legacy Golf Course at the 19. Those places in northern Iowa are all open weekends, so I have time for Café Madeleine Tuesday through Thursdays.”

In RELISH and CITYVIEW, we have written about Northwestern Steak House in Mason City. Has David visited that century-old Greek restaurant?

“I love it. I love the idea of having a glass of wine in your car as you wait to get called in to your table. That’s a small-town charm. I also really like Café Mir in Fertile. It’s amazing. One owner is Czech and another Greek. You have to try it.” 

David is also planning another French bistro in Des Moines.

“I am looking at the new building going up on Ingersoll across the street from Panka and Office Max. It has no carbon footprint. I love that neighborhood, and there’s going to be a marvelous retro hotel there opening soon.” ♦