Graziano Brothers — in the place where it all began

6/4/2025

In 1903, brothers Francesco, 21, and Luigi, 17, Graziano left their Calabrian hometown San Morello to emigrate to the U.S. Like many Calabrians before them, and many more later, their way winded to Des Moines.

They found jobs working for the Great Western Railroad until 1912. Then they decided that Luigi, Louie by then, should open a business while Frank remained at the railroad as security till the business was profitable enough to support both families. 

That was the origin of Graziano Brothers on South Union Street in the middle of Des Moines most tight-knit neighborhood ever — the predominantly Calabrian Italian southside of the 20th century. Graziano’s is still there in the same place it began. Only Saint Anthony Catholic Church has similar icon status on the southside. 

The business stood out from other Italian grocers on the southside because of its sausage. Graziano Brothers’ Italian sausage survived others in Des Moines, most significantly Scavo’s, because its fennel-based spice blend and its orange color distinguished it. The color and the medium hot flavor of their non-sweet sausage comes from paprika and other dried red peppers. 

The late hotelier Bob Conley traded equal pounds of Maryland crab for Graziano’s sausage when he lived in the Chesapeake area. The sausage was that addictive to central Iowans growing up as Boomers. 

Graziano Brothers used to compete directly with a handful of other Italian import stores and grocers including one across the street on South Union. Now they have the neighborhood to themselves. 

Sausage wholesaling is still their main business, maybe 70% of it. But the grocery and deli have been gaining popularity, especially since Francesco’s granddaughter, and Luigi’s great niece, Frances, decided to serve lunch midst a building boom in the neighborhood the last 10 years. 

Their Italian sausage is also what separates them from other delis. Sold in bulk, link or patty forms and with sweet or medium levels of heat, it allows Graziano Brothers to make the best example of the grinder, a signature Des Moines sandwich originally called “guinea grinders.” That name probably linked to Italian American coal miners who ate them after a grinding day in the mines. 

Made with fennel sausage, tomato sauce, basil, oregano, garlic and onion powders, and usually dressed with banana peppers or giardiniera, it is served on a hoagie bun from a bakery of Italian roots — South Union, La Mie or Fancy/Rotella’s. 

On Wednesdays, the deli sells Chicago Italian beef sandwiches. Theirs are the best in town to our taste buds. They are made with thin-sliced roast beef and kept warm in jus, served on a hoagie with lots of giardiniera and a tub of jus for dipping. 

Other deli sandwiches are distinguished by Graziano Brothers’ excellence as an importer of Italian meats, cheeses, oils, vinegars, olives, cannoli, pasta and tinned fish. They also broker some top local Italian products — like Lemmo’s cavatelli and cannoli, South Union and La Mie breads.  

Graziano’s now makes its own Italian dressing, exclusively with olive oil, and five kinds of pasta sauce. All are our choice as best in town. 

Cold sandwich specialties include the knuckle with hot soppressato, coppa, pepperoni, pepper cheese, pepperoncini and Italian dressing. Panini include the goomba with prosciutto, Fontina, roasted red peppers and pesto mayo. You can build your own sandwich, too. 

Service is geared for shopping. There are no tables, and sandwiches are delivered in foil and paper bags. Like any other sundries in the store, you take them to the checkout stations. While sandwiches are being made, people either shop or stand around and converse. Some sing, usually quite well, while waiting. 

Their songs, like the brothers’ sandwiches, are all Italian. ♦

Jim Duncan is a food writer who has been covering the central Iowa scene for more than five decades.