Chicago Speakeasy is an ode to comfort

The year was 1978, a most Dickensian time. A murder/suicide in Jonestown, Guyana, ended 909 American lives while Israel and Egypt were finding accord at Camp David, Maryland. Argentina won its first World Cup after Peru’s national team laid down and allowed six Argentine goals in a strange group stage semifinal, just enough to keep Brazil from moving on in Argentina’s favor. Brazil broke off diplomatic ties with Peru. Many World Cup rules were changed. “Grease” was the most popular movie in every country on Earth. The Super Bowl moved into prime time, Carol Burnett retired her TV show, and SNL debuted “The Blues Brothers.” 

In Chicago, the Cubs were led by two stars — Bill Buckner and Dave Kingman — infamous now for futility. The White Sox were so bad they went through two managers that season. The Bulls were even worse, finishing dead last in the NBA. Mayor Richard “Boss” Daily had stepped down from his notorious 21-year reign. Oprah and Michael were still years away from Chicago. 

The Windy City was then a most dubious identity with which to attach anyone’s aspirations. But that’s just what Ron and Mary Jaeger did in bringing Chicago Speakeasy out in that eerie year. The move ran against the winds of the time in other ways, too. By the end of the 1970s, it was clear that Des Moines’ economy was moving west and northwest. The Oak/Highland Park neighborhood had seen better days. 

The thing about really good restaurants is that location does not matter. People will seek you out anywhere, if you are really good. Howard Johnson grew into the largest restaurant chain in America from one humble store in Quincy, Massachusetts, 100 years ago. 

Chicago Speakeasy has been really good for closing in on 50 years now. It is Des Moines’ de facto OG supper club. Its real wood and brick design epitomizes the genre, best identified with Ron’s native Wisconsin. The Chicago part of its identity honors Mary’s birthplace. It is meant to be comfortable first and foremostly. It can accommodate crowds of most any size with multiple, separate rooms. 

Its salad bar is a legendary, dying heirloom of Midwest history. Holding 50 items since day one, and grandfathered into the law, it is ice-chilled. The ice factor is labor intensive, so most places wouldn’t bother if they could. But the ice adds an authenticity that is not found in other salad bars, or in the crudite boards and relish trays that have replaced them. 

Ice chills in a vital manner. As it thaws and dies, it is transforming its deep chill to herring, peas, beets, garbanzos, cheeses and multiple salads and dressings. Because comfort is the restaurant’s ultimate reason for being, unlimited trips to its icy island are included in all meals, lunch and dinner.  

More is old fashioned than otherwise at Chicago Speakeasy. Ron and Mary’s family still runs the place, which is the beating heart of Oak Park. A remarkable number of the staff are part of the neighborhood and treat strangers as cherished guests. No other place in town has waiters inquire how your meal is going as frequently. 

Two things are served here every day that are reserved for special occasions and “weekends only” most everywhere else. Prime rib is probably the restaurant’s signature dish. Fried chicken is very special with probably the crunchiest breading in town. Though served daily, these dishes both have a special day when they are discounted — Monday for prime rib and Thursday for fried chicken. All dinners come with the salad bar, a personal, freshly baked loaf of bread, and sides that include spaghetti with house marinara.

Other things that one doesn’t find as often as back in the strangeness of 1978 are featured at Chicago Speakeasy — hot beef sandwiches, shrimp cocktails, whole sauteed mushrooms, and hot apple dumplings, to name a few. 

It all adds up to a hall of fame restaurant. ♦

Jim Duncan is a food writer who has been covering the central Iowa scene for more than five decades.