The ‘Killer’ vibes of B & B Grocery, Meat and Deli

3/5/2025

B & B Grocery, Meat and Deli is the beating heart of Sevastopol. It has been since the first Brooks brothers, John and “Archie,” opened for business in 1922. 

“Everyone called him Archie, but his real name was Joseph. That confusion has continued. Joe and I are the third generation of Brooks brothers to run this place,” John Brooks explained.

Sevastopol Township was named in 1840 for a Ukrainian fort in the Crimean War. It was annexed by Des Moines in 1890. When the Sevastopol trolley line was lost to bus service in 1940, Sevastopol lost its separate identity and became just a part of the southside.

The store has anchored the Sevastopol neighborhood over its entire run. It keeps faith with a communal vibe that resembles a barbershop more than a grocery store. People come to talk and spend time with neighbors. 

The original Brooks brothers ran their store across the street from its current location, which began in 1962. 

“Joe and I started working here as kids, mopping, sweeping and hauling bags of potatoes. Our main perk was that we got to make our own lunch. We piled it on our sandwiches — stacking roast beef, ham and Italian sausages with all kinds of stuff.

“People admired our sandwiches, so we talked Dad into making them to sell. That’s how the Deli part of the store began,” John continued.

“Killer sandwiches” are now a local legend. The top two sellers are made for big appetites. “Dad’s Killer” consists of roast beef, turkey breast, smoked ham, corned beef, pepper cheese, Swiss cheese, American cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, kosher pickles, mustard, Miracle Whip, Tuscan Italian dressing on an Italian hoagie roll, pumpernickel rye, white, or wheat bread.

“Zach’s Italian Killer” consists of spicy capicola, hard salami, Italian roast beef, sandwich pepperoni, provolone, mozzarella, pepper cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, sweet and banana peppers, and Tuscan Italian dressing served on Italian hoagie rolls, pumpernickel rye, white, or wheat bread.

B & B’s breaded pork tenderloin is made with real tenderloin, not the usual tenderized pig meat. It was voted Des Moines’ Ultimate Sandwich by CITYVIEW readers in 2010.  

The deli is part of a whole animal butcher shop. A new headless cow arrives from Doty Farms every Monday. Where else can you get heart steaks cut to order, sweetbreads, duck fat by the quart, or have your prime rib aged to any hang time?  

The deli is unique, too. It offers multiple kinds of headcheese. Sandwich sides include livers, gizzards, onion rings, poppers, multiple kinds of wings, cheddar nuggets, cheese sticks and deviled eggs. Exquisite desserts are imported from Kansas City’s Golden Boy and are also served in that town’s best restaurants.

The brothers, and two more generations behind them, are so accommodating that two of the busiest days last year were days they are officially closed. Christmas Eve prime ribs are so popular they sold 400-plus last year. This year, Super Bowl Sunday brought orders for 40 3-foot “Killers.”

B & B was a rare bastion for Fancy Breads. The “Killers,” burgers and Polish sausages were served on them. 

“Then, on Christmas Eve of 2023, they disappeared. I can’t understand how they could just let it go,” John mused. The sandwiches now are made with Rotella’s rolls and buns. Like Fancy Breads, they were a local business. Unlike them, Rotella’s sold and lives on in Omaha.

What has never changed is the democracy of this place. 

“We’ve seen it all. One day Gov. Culver was in line for a ‘Killer’ on his way to work, along with some hookers on their way home from work.”

Famous headlines (“Nazis invade Poland”) from The Des Moines Register and Tribune are framed on the walls of the dining area. Cops, firefighters and blue collar workers mix with politicians and CEOs.

Everybody loves a Killer. n

Jim Duncan is a food writer who has been covering the central Iowa scene for more than five decades.