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Food Dude

Double tasking done well

7/6/2022

The gyros platter at 60th Market is cut thicker than most gyros.

Despite what Karine Jean-Pierre keeps saying, it’s hard to imagine gas becoming cheaper any time soon. That leads some to plan errands with military precision. It helps when you can do multiple things on the same trip. Chester’s (fried chicken) made it their business plan to only operate within other businesses, mostly truck stops (I-80 in Walcott) and convenience stores (Fast Mart, RIA Money Transfer and Liquor Store at 1621 University). The Des Moines Art Center (Tangerine) and Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden (Trellis) include excellent cafés. 

There used to be good places to eat in the State Capitol, the State Historical Building, Namaste grocery, Plaza Lanes, downtown Younkers and some Dahl’s stores. For myriad reasons, all are gone, at least for now. Maybe it’s time for a revival? 

Tally-Ho to Go brings two of the city’s all-time best restaurants — Vic’s Tally-Ho and Sam & Gabe’s — together in the Merle Hay Mall food court, also known as Local Eats. Owner Jerry Talerico grew up in Vic’s and owned Sam & Gabe’s. He is known as a chef’s chef, a guy who would prefer working in the kitchen than the front of the house. 

Vic’s version of steak de Burgo is one of two that people argue about being the original. Vic had it on a menu before anyone else, so we go with it. That divine civic heirloom recipe includes two beef tenderloin filets in a sauce of basil, garlic, olive oil and butter. Here “special herbs” are described. Two filets cost $42, which is a bargain around town as it can feed two. 

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Tally Ho is one of the few places in Des Moines offering pizza by the slice. It’s good pie, too. A large “supreme” included three meats and four vegetables and cost $20. Slices start at $3 according to the website, but that might have increased. The Margherita here is fabulous, with fresh mozzarella dominant. 

Tally Ho to Go
3800 Merle Hay Road, Des Moines
515-727-1404
Wednesday – Thursday, 11 a.m. – 6 p.m.; 
Friday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 7 p.m.The Filling Station
2400 S. University Blvd., Ames
515-292-6769
Monday – Friday, 6 a.m. – 2 p.m.; 
Saturday, 6 a.m. – 1 p.m.

60th Market 
5954 Ashworth Road, West Des Moines
515-225-2858
Daily, 10 a.m. – 8 p.m. 

Jerry’s lasagna, another bargain at $10, is made with four cheeses and sausage with a choice of red, white or both sauces. Other Talerico classics include linguini with meatballs, penne Sophia in cream sauce, chicken asiago, half pound sausage sandwiches, muffaletta, and garlic cheese sticks. Sauces, sides and even de Burgo spices are sold to go. Lunches are all less than $10. 

The long-lived Phillips 66 station in Ames, near the Gateway Center, the sports complex, CY Stephens, Reiman Gardens and the Brunnier Art Museum, is now a full-service breakfast, lunch and brunch spot with excellent homemade BBQ, biscuits and pancakes. 

On different trips I have enjoyed the homemade buttermilk pancakes ($5), a brisket burrito ($9.49) and a pulled pork sandwich on a homemade brioche ($8.49). Yes, homemade brioche at the gas station. Truck stops used to be good for breakfast bargains. This place outdoes any Iowa truck stop I know. 

West of Des Moines, the 60th Market and Grill offers a chance to eat Mediterranean food while shopping for rose or orange blossom water, mango pulp, ajvar, tahini, etc. This is not Gazali’s, but it’s a darn good café in a convenient place. Gyros here were sliced far thicker than I have seen elsewhere. I could not fathom why other places don’t go this direction. If anything, the meat is moister. 

Saffron-colored rice was a treat, and there is a good reason chicken shawarma is advertised in neon on the window. Hummus and falafel were good, and a friend tells me her pre-teen children think 60th makes the best burgers in town. ♦

Jim Duncan is a food writer who has been covering the central Iowa scene for more than five decades.

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