Shirley’s Bar & Grill

One of West Des Moines’ newest restaurants is NOT a sports bar. At least that’s what it says on the back of the servers’ T-shirts.

Take a peek into Shirley’s Bar & Grill, located at 9250 University Ave. in West Des Moines, where you’ll find a lively atmosphere, good food and tasty drinks — all at price points that won’t strain the wallet.

On a recent visit, 1980s music played along to a Madonna video, an ode to the old MTV days. A ballgame or two showed on a few screens, but sports isn’t the focus. Instead, search for your favorite oldies movie star or musician photos from those that are plastered on a huge wall. In the corner, another wall of celebrity mug shots offers conversation starters. Perched on a long shelf above the booths are colorful lava lamps with iridescent blobs floating dreamily in all directions.

The black walls and brown leather barstools offer a cozy, spirited vibe. Booths, high-tops and other seating provide interesting views.

So, who is Shirley? According to the bartender, Jess, the town of Waukee (technically across the street) was formerly named Shirley. However, the railroad owners wanted the town name of Shirley to be changed in the late 1800s, thus changing its name to Waukee. 

Shirley’s Bar & Grill is part of the Dark Side of the Spoon group, which currently owns more than a dozen bars and restaurants in the Des Moines metro.

Shirley’s has a full bar and a happy hour Monday through Thursdays from 3-6 p.m., featuring $1 off drafts, $4 wells, $6 seltzers or $5 house wine. Bottles of wine range from $28 to $39. 

Try a specialty cocktail, as most are just $9. The Long Beach includes rum, gin, vodka and Cointreau with house sour mix and cranberry juice for $9; or the Dirty Shirley with Tito’s Vodka, cherry syrup, lime juice and Starry for $8. Local brews include Barntown, which is brewed close by.

The Mint Grasshopper is blended with mint chocolate chip ice cream, Crème de Menthe, and Crème de Cocoa. Tell your grandma about the refreshing dessert drink, and she might reminisce about the days when she used to drink them.

The food menu offers a couple dozen items including appetizers, sandwiches, smash burgers and salads. We tried the pizza dip with marinara, cream cheese, mozzarella, Graziano’s sausage and pepperoni, served with fresh dough chips for $14. It’s almost like a scoopable cheesy lasagna, sans the noodles. 

My Belly Up partner and I split the French dip. We didn’t ask, but the kitchen split it and put it on two separate plates, so we didn’t have to double dip in the savory au jus. The side of sweet potato tots were a flavorful substitute for regular fries. You can also get loaded tots as an app with sour cream, bacon, chives and cheddar cheese, served with Shirley’s special sauce for $14.

Toward the back of the place, a slightly raised dining area transforms into a stage, offering live music, usually on Saturdays. A patio adds outdoor seating in warmer weather.

The place appears purposely weathered, like Shirley has entertained countless patrons over the years. For a funky, welcoming suburban vibe, visit Shirley’s. 

Just remember, it’s not a sports bar.