Hidden in plain sight

If you are looking for an expertly handcrafted cocktail in West Des Moines, don’t search for the word “bar” on the outdoor signage. Instead, look for a beauty salon and spa.

Hidden inside Serenity Couture Salon & Spa in the former Wells Fargo building is West Des Moines’ newest speakeasy, The Atlas Room. No password is required, but guests will need a creative mind to discover how to enter. That’s part of the appeal.

Once past the barber chair (hint, hint) and through the massive door, visitors are welcomed by a dark hallway leading into a space that feels refined, intriguing and approachable all at once. Comfortable chairs and plush sofas topped with oversized throw pillows create the atmosphere of a stylishly decorated living room.

A warm glow reflects off the décor from backlighting throughout the lounge. Videos of world maps and geography nod to the origins of cocktail flavors, while jazz, big band and upbeat music play through a hi-fi stereo system. Curious about the soundtrack? The iPad menu displays both the song title and artist.

The same iPad menu showcases the latest cocktails, complete with colorful photos and detailed ingredient lists. Drinks are organized into categories including air, land, sea and destination-inspired classics.

Among the standouts is The Green Line, made with 400 Conejos Mezcal, Warner’s Harrington Gin, celery syrup, lemon and pineapple, then garnished with a celery sprig ($18). The ingredients blend into a balanced, approachable cocktail.

The Espresso Martini features Madagascan vanilla bean-infused Belvedere vodka, espresso and cane syrup ($22). A thick, creamy foam tops the drink, elevating it beyond the typical coffeehouse version.

The VP’s Old Fashioned ($24) arrives with an Atlas-logo ice cube. More than a half-dozen custom ice designs appear throughout the menu. Guests looking to splurge can order from the Luxury Collection, including a one-ounce pour of Rémy Martin Louis XIII cognac for $300.

The full bar also offers wine by the glass or bottle, along with several local beers starting at $8.

Owners Doug and Jana Van Polen recruited Henry Avila as director of beverage and operations. Drawing from experience with high-end cocktail programs, Avila brings influences from Miami’s South Beach and New York to create a polished, hospitality-driven experience.

The Atlas Room also offers three membership tiers, each including access to select cocktails, tasting invitations and other perks. A wooden wall lined with locked compartments stores reserved liquor bottles for members.

Food is not currently available, though the owners hope to eventually offer charcuterie trays or partner with a restaurant in the building.

Whether it is a special occasion, a splurge-worthy night out or simply an escape from the ordinary, The Atlas Room delivers a speakeasy experience unlike anything else in the suburbs. ♦

Jackie Wilson has written hundreds of articles for CITYVIEW and the Iowa Living magazines. She has covered many ordinary people living extraordinary lives.