Noah’s Ark is a shelter from the storm

12/31/2025

Noah’s Ark has been selling pizza since World War II. It is certainly the oldest restaurant in Iowa to sell them continuously and, arguably, the first to offer them. 

“After serving in the army, Noah (Lacona) got a government contract to feed soldiers passing through Des Moines. To get it, he had to stay open 24 hours a day. That was rare in the 1940s, but train stations were open 24-7. G.I.s were issued coupons for meals, and pizza was the easiest way to deal with the unknown demand. He did it at Union Station Café downtown,” explained James Lacona, Noah’s grandson and the current owner of the restaurant. 

So, how did the restaurant get its name? 

“In 1946 Noah opened Christina’s Café, after his first child, in what was a two-car garage where the eastern part of the current restaurant is now. One rainy day, the roof started leaking. Noah went up there and started patching the shake shingles. When he came down, some of his buddies in the bar started asking, ‘What are you doing up there Noah, building an ark?’ ”

Physically, the restaurant grew in six stages during the 1950s and 1960s. 

“Noah did not believe in borrowing money, so he saved up before adding on. He built the second floor and five other additions one at a time after saving money,” Lacona added.

Today the restaurant’s whole is definitely greater than its parts. It shows off Noah’s passions for Biblical art, nautical machinery and race cars. Regulars covet tables in semi secluded booths, at the bar and by the fireplace. The second floor provides banquet and party space. Both of my parents enjoyed their last meals at Noah’s. I had my first pizza there at a 1954 birthday party. 

Pizza are still the top seller. They are medium crust pies heavy on mozzarella and sauce that was made by Noah’s mother, Teresa. All the sauces, sausage and meatballs come from unwritten recipes passed down through Teresa and kept alive by Noah’s brother, Frank. 

The pizza crusts, “love knots,” yeast rolls and loaves of bread have history even longer than the restaurant. One of Noah’s first jobs was working in the Italian-owned Supreme Bakery in the early part of the 20th century. Noah’s grandson, Tony Lemmo, has partnered with food historian George Formaro to research Italian breadmaking in Des Moines. They believe that Supreme/Golden Crust breads are the same as Noah’s makes today. That dates the recipe at least 100 years. 

The “love knots” were created to cater to rising gluten intolerance and dieting diners. James started getting complaints from customers that the yeast rolls were addictive temptations, so he created the much smaller “knots.” 

Ravioli, spicy Italian sausage and meatballs are all made from scratch in the kitchen. The “Calabrese lasagna” is actually pasta chena, made with rigatoni instead of lasagna pasta. It is one of the most popular dishes on the menu.  

Old fashioned touches remain unchanged. Noah’s still serves veal and chicken livers. A revolving door entrance shelters diners from cold winds and heat storms. Chicken dinners, both grilled and fried, include half chickens, not just two pieces or strips. Beef tips with fettucine and hot beef sandwiches are as good as any and use a rich, light-colored gravy. Colbert sauce (a vanishing classic of butter and meat drippings with herbs and lemon juice) accompanies steaks and pork roasts. Fried green pepper rings and onion rings are served separately or as a combo.  

Cakes are shipped in from Noah’s favorite places in San Francisco and Chicago. Spumoni with rum sauce and cannoli are local favorites. Espresso is excellent. Parking lots to the south and the west of the restaurant probably comprise the largest restaurant lots in Des Moines. ♦

Jim Duncan is a food writer who has been covering the central Iowa scene for more than five decades.