By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com

La Bamba is a great study in budget remodeling. Instead of gutting an old KFC and spending half a million dollars (standard operating procedure these days), owner Juvencio Ramirez preserved most of the interior and furnishings, added tables and a bar (margaritas and beer), and warmed the place up with simple dècor and a creative paint job. Hot pink, the in-color of the year, turns the abundant natural light into an asset.

Mexican restaurants, the growth segment of the industry in Des Moines, differ according to their interest in appealing to non-Mexican customers. La Bamba is quite accommodating, far more like El Aguila Real than La Pena. A telltale sign - no Jarritos, the Mexican soft drink made with real sugar like American soft drinks used to be. Over two weeks of visits, we noticed more Anglo and fewer Hispanic customers as time passed.

Good news first - La Bamba is open for breakfast at 7 a.m. on weekends, filling a neighborhood demand with huge, mostly American breakfasts (hashbrowns and toast instead of beans and tortillas). The lunch menu (mostly $4) is among the best bargains in town, generous and served piping hot. Many things were made fresh. Pico de gallo ($1 cup) and guacamole ($2.50) had just been prepared. Chiles rellenos were made with fresh, mild poblano chilies (not dried anchos as the menu said). They also passed the stem test - intact stems show that fresh chilies are used. Mild seeds and membrane confirmed this.

Other dishes were not as accommodating. Tamales were served without husks or leaves, and with creamy, almost Central American texture. Our "chorizo" did a Jim Carrey-class impersonation of Italian sausage. Red chili tasted like very sweet spaghetti sauce. Hamburger was ubiquitous, beginning with actual hamburgers, rarely seen in Mexican joints. While many special combos offered a menu choice of "ground beef, shredded beef or chicken," our shredded beef was ground beef and, on one occasion, our chicken was, too.

On one visit, we made a point of asking for a dish that was "pork, no beef." We were directed to the tamales. When we complained that they were buried in hamburger, we were told, "all pork inside, beef outside." And you can't get upset when you're reminded just how right-on John Belushi's "Cheeburger, cheeburger, no Coke, Pepsi" routine was.

There are other confusions here, too. Tortillas, though heavy, fell apart too easily. The corn had no corn flavor. Some items were listed twice on the menu, at different prices. One day we waited in line to correct our check, as others were doing the same. Both the green and red chili sauces were overwhelmed with salty tomatillos and tomatoes respectively. Though we were assured the green was made with fresh-roasted chilies and the red with a guajillo paste, you couldn't taste the chili for the 'maters.

Presentations were superior. Fajitas came sizzling and overflowing off their cast-iron pan. A "to-go" order, ready and hot on time, included a fresh avocado garnish. Desserts were crowd pleasers, with lots of imitation whipped cream. Our flan was decorated in chocolate sauce; when we appeared unhappy about that, it was quickly replaced with a chocolate-free version, without even having to ask. It was also, like most everything, a good bargain, at $1.50.

Food news

Raul's Mexican restaurant on east Grand recently closed, a month after its Clive brother cafè hung up his serape. Owner Raul Hernandez cited competition from numerous low-overhead taquerias for ending his 43-year run... Saturday is the final Downtown Farmers' Market, the best of the year for several reasons: cabbage, spinach and water chestnuts are superior after adjusting to fall's colder temperatures; cider from Storybook Orchards, where it still goes unpasteurized and tastes like real apples; vast arrays of squash (including legendary sibleys), beets, potatoes, radishes, daikon, carrots and turnips all keep well for months. CV

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