Lemon soufflé pancakes
with toasted pine nuts and
blueberry sauce. |
BOS — an American dream
story
BOS opened this April in the
Renaissance Savery Hotel. Both
the hotel and restaurant are owned
by Christian Hotel Owners Association
(CHOA), a chapter in the story
of the American dream. The Chan
Soo Cho family was unemployed
in 1992 when their prayers led
them to jobs in a California motel,
as maids and manager. Within four
years, Cho bought the first of
13 motels in his group. The Renaissance
Savery represents CHOA’s next
phase, upgrading their brand.
Extraordinary attention has been
paid to detailing the restaurant,
which opens dramatically to the
lobby through a satin draped stage
window that allowed live jazz
in both areas. That openness fostered
unusual cooperation — a bell hop
bussed tables during one restaurant
rush. Art Deco hard wood furniture
provided style with substance.
Stunning French Modernist light
fixtures played counterpoint to
a Neo Classical wall frieze by
Tom Moberg. To harmonize those
disparate styles, TJ Moberg created
a surrealist print series that
incorporates both classical and
Deco motifs. In one, the restaurant’s
cylindrical chandeliers float
over an Italian Renaissance cityscape.
Similarly, chef John Andres (Wakonda
Club) marries Iowa comfort foods
with classical and modernist notions.
Andres is promoting as many Iowa
products as anyone in town and
says he wants more, especially
produce. A few menu items serviced
Midwestern clichés about
maximization — Cheese sauces abounded,
even “de Burgo” included a blue
cheese sauce that overwhelmed
its Templeton Rye deglaze; signature
corned beef hash was covered with
sausage gravy; buttermilk mashed
potatoes tasted more like cheese
than potatoes.
More restrained recipes produced
distinguished plates. Wonderful
lemon soufflé pancakes
were served simply with raspberries,
blueberries and raspberry syrup.
A remarkable miso chicken soup
blended chicken and soy paste
stock with subtle chilies. Pan
seared walleye was lightly breaded
seared with bacon and served with
capers and lemon sauce. Risotto
was smooth as good Parmesan cheese,
crunchy as perfectly cooked arborio
and scented with truffle oil.
Crisp risotto cakes added additional
textures. Sweet corn with jalapenos,
and scallops with prosciutto were
both simple pairings of complementary
flavors. Baby carrots were caramelized
so perfectly that I began requesting
them as a substitute.
There were kinks. Prime rib was
beautifully coated in aromatics
and served perfectly rare, as
ordered. However, it was freakishly
tough to chew — fibrous to the
point that I couldn’t swallow
a single bite. Corned beef brisket
in breakfast hash had the same
problem. Toast was not warm enough
to melt whipped butter. Garnishes
were almost completely absent
— not even a pickle slice with
a reuben. A “house special” meatloaf
was unavailable on both occasions
I tried to order it. A pork tenderloin
was simply average, making me
dream of those sold on Army Post
Road for half the price. House
made potato chips tasted less
than fresh.
Desserts were fabulous, especially
blueberry foster — three giant
crepes filled with mascarpone,
flambéed in butter, brown
sugar and rum and covered with
a blueberry reduction and slightly
cooked berries. A bread pudding
with praline caramel was moist
with sweetness. Cheesecake on
a stick was a delightful homage
to the state fair — covered in
dark chocolate and nuts. Wines
ranged from $15 to $149 with 38
available by the glass. A full
bar touted Iowa products Templeton
Rye whiskey, ClearHeart rum, gin
and vodka and Cedar Ridge grappa,
brandy and limoncello. Special
concessions to dieters included
cauliflower hash browns, high
fiber-low carb French toast and
an all meat and eggs breakfasts.
Buffets were available for breakfast
and lunch.
Bottom line — BOS is an artistic
gem that shows off the best Iowa
foods and drinks.
Side Dishes
Blue Gate Farms’ organic status
was restored. Last year a careless
crop duster polluted their fields…
Carly Groban is now owner/chef
at Proof… Country Club Market
Cooking School (987-5957) offers
a Father’s Day special June 10
and 17. Dads are half-priced and
walnut stuffed beef tournedos
headline the menu. CV
BOS
401 Locust Street
Breakfast Mon. - Fri. 6:30 a.m.
- 10 a.m., until noon on weekends;
Lunch daily 11a.m. - 2 p.m.; Dinner
daily 6:30 p.m. - 10 p.m.
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