Coach’s Pizza chicken tenders are made with fresh breasts. OverTime 4810 86th St., Urbandale 727-4992 Daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Coach’s Pizza 560 S. Prairie View Drive, West Des Moines, 223-2233. Daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (pizza served later)

OverTime and Coach’s Pizza enter the sports bar field

About the same time that a buff shooting guard from Chicago replaced a Texas cowboy in the White House, sports bars overtook barbecues as Des Moines’ fastest growing restaurant genre. Q’s had led the city in restaurant openings for three years in a row, but last year sports bars popped up faster than a sitting President can fill out his basketball tournament brackets. You need a scorecard to keep track.

OverTime Neighborhood Hub Sports & Grub opened recently near the Johnston border in Urbandale in a building that previously housed Torocco and Jesse’s Embers. Serving neither pasta nor steaks, this new restaurant will not be confused with either predecessor. It should not to be confused with Overtime Sports Pub & Grub in Bettendorf, though I doubt I will be the only one to make that mistake. Like that eastern Iowa place, the Urbandale OverTime looks like a winner. It was busy during off hours when I visited, and its parking lot completely overflowed during rush hours. This OverTime was divided in two. Half the place was decorated with Chicago Cub pennants and half with those of a St. Louis team. It was also clearly divided between bar and restaurant, though one could eat or drink anywhere. High definition, wide screen televisions were placed so that I could watch four at the same time without moving my eyes.

A four-page menu included old-fashioned sports bar fare, from the days before Jethro’s and Sky Box upgraded the genre’s kitchens. The freshest tasting appetizer was a Buffalo style wing platter. Nachos, potato “nachos,” cheese curds, chicken tenders, tater tots and onion rings delivered familiar bar room products. “Summertime” salad was out of season. A ham and asparagus soup was quite salty and tasted more like processed cheese than either ham or asparagus. A Philly cheese steak delivered freshly sautéed vegetables and thin sliced beef but was dominated by a salty, liquid version of “Provolone cheese.” Pizza was thick yet crisply crusted. An Angus burger, ordered without cheese, had a lovely sear but no juicy flavor. All sandwiches were served on good, fresh buns and came with a choice of baked beans, waffle fries, French fries, cottage cheese or potato chips, none remarkable. A kid’s menu was an attractive bargain, ranging from $2 to $4 with entrée and side dish included.

Coach’s Pizza, which recently opened in West Glen, is related to the former Coach’s Corner. Recipes have been retained, but the new place is a lighter, more family-friendly incarnation. There are no $125 a shot brandies here, but you can get pizza by the slice. This venue incorporates stunning designs including ample natural light from east and west windows, a beach sand patio, natural wood wainscoting and furniture, an antique tin tile bar and tall ceilings. A Ms. Pac Man video game updates the definition of nostalgia. Televisions are discrete for the genre. I could eat without even noticing them.

The menu was written on a single page. Sandwiches were state-of-the-sports-bar art. Meatball and grinders were toasted perfectly with good homemade marinara and Graziano sausage. An Italian sub was thick with three meats and real cheeses. Chicken fingers were almond crusted and obviously made with fresh breast strips. Garlic bread reminded me of the old Southside. Spinach pasta was covered in a rich sauce of real cheese. Salads included reasonably fresh multiple lettuces. Pizza, offered in regular, whole wheat and gluten-free crusts, were medium thick and less interesting than the Italian sandwiches.

Bottom line — OT is a state-of-the-technology sports bar with food. Coach’s is an architecturally splendid venue and a good Italian-Des Moines kitchen with sports on TV.

Side Dishes
The Des Moines Art Center is offering dining experiences in six of the city’s most distinguished private venues, $75 - $175... Living History Farms will host a Monday evening farmers’ market this year. CV

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