By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com
Miyabi
9
 On
first impression, the new Japanese
café in East Village looked
modest with fewer than 40 seats
and a minimalist design of blonde
wood without adornments. By the
time I noticed that the kitchen
took up more than half the floor
space, I was greeted by headwaiter
Marcus Walsh and owner-chef Miyabi
“Mike” Yamamoto. Then it hit me,
the simplicity is carefully calculated
— it’s inconspicuous because this
place is all about the food.
Having moved from Sage to Basil
Prosperi to Lucca, Walsh is known
as a harbinger of the next big
thing in Des Moines. He’s here
because Miyabi brings 46 years
of Japanese culinary dogma to
town after running restaurants
in Osaka, Los Angeles and New
England. Miyabi is certified to
prepare fugu, a deadly pufferfish
that is the holy grail for dining’s
thrill seekers. For perspective,
as of 2006 there were only 17
licensed fugu chefs in the United
States. So what’s this guy doing
in Des Moines?
“My good friend is a heart surgeon
here,” Miyabi explained with characteristic
minimalism.
Dr. David Lim said his family
moved to Des Moines recently from
Massachusetts where Yamamoto’s
previous café was their
favorite restaurant. Here the
family pined for good, heart-healthy
Japanese food. So Lim asked Miyabi
to move to Des Moines.
“I didn’t think he’d take me
seriously, but I kept asking and
he finally said yes,” Lim related.
The restaurant, a work in progress
since spring, was set to open
on Thanksgiving weekend. Local
supporters suggested that was
bad timing. They didn’t realize
the date had been picked after
consultations with Japanese astrologers
and that the next auspicious date
was two weeks away.
Don’t get the wrong impression.
There’s nothing intimidating about
this place — puffer fish is not
on the menu and prices stay in
line with other local places that
serve sushi. Nigiri and sashimi
(two and three pieces respectively)
cost $3.25 to $6.95. All but one
appetizer was under $9, and all
dinners stayed below $18. All
but one lunch special came in
under $9.
Condiments revealed details
of excellence. Shakers of Nanami
Togorashi replaced salt and pepper
with its combination of chilies,
orange peel, ginger, multiple
sesame seeds and seaweed. Wasabi
is made fresh daily here. Table
soy sauces were naturally brewed
imports while the kitchen soy
sauce was Miyabi’s homemade, aged
tamari. Handcrafts abounded. Everything
from the coat rack to the fish
cake holders was carved by the
chef.
Miyabi is also his own itamae
(sushi chef) and his sushi sets
local standards. I overheard someone
put it this way: “Fish this fresh
makes me wonder how I ever found
previous sushi acceptable.” The
bincho maguro (albacore tuna),
hirame (whitefish) and especially
the himachi (yellowtail tuna)
all did what sushi does at its
best — it broke cleanly under
my teeth and overwhelmed my entire
mouth with a savory experience.
Grilled eel, mackerel, salmon,
several kinds of roe, surf clams,
steamed mussels, shrimp and scallops
all made good sushi. Quail eggs
were a cute topper. The menu’s
lack of toro (fatty tuna belly)
and uni (sea urchin roe) were
disappointing, but I felt compensated
with a California roll made with
real king crab. (One can also
order these with crabsticks for
about half the price.)
Among my favorite non-sushi dishes,
“lava” was like a classic French
casserole of fresh crab, scallops
and mushrooms in spicy cream sauce.
Una-ju presented broiled eel in
a rich eel sauce. Shu mai (pork
dumplings) and hiyayakko (tofu
treated with dried mackerel flakes
and vegetables) were my favorite
appetizers. Very different breading
covered different fried foods:
Sesame chicken, tonkatsu (the
ultimate pork tenderloin), ebi
fry (with extra long shrimp),
fish fry, tempura ice cream and
tempura cheese cake were all crisp,
multi-textured Panko delights.
There was a very short, inexpensive
wine list.
Side dishes
McDonald’s announced a nationwide
rollout for espresso bars in their
restaurants, beginning with 800
stores in early 2008. CV
Miyabi 9
512 E. Grand, 288-7070
Mon. - Sat. 11 a.m. - 3 p.m.;
Mon. - Thurs. 5 - 9 p.m.; Fri.
- Sat. 5 - 10 p.m.
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