By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com

Fifteen years ago, Des Moines asked New York architect Mario Gandelsonas to create a “vision plan” for the city. He prioritized the revitalization of first impressions for air travelers like himself. Gray’s Lake and Gateway Park probably owe their present happy state to his influence. But the most visionary thing the professor told us was less egocentric — that design can only “celebrate the unplanned dynamism of a city.”

While civic leaders were trying to entice a carpetbagger Cineplex operator to build downtown, Court Avenue and East Village happened, despite them. People visited and moved in because creative entrepreneurs, working mostly with sweat equity, gave those neighborhoods something one can’t find in the ‘burbs — restaurants and bars with distinct personalities. Grand Piano Bistro (GPB) is a grand example.

Owners Sara Middleton and Tony Bohnenkamp cut their teeth on the local creative independent scene — Middleton at Hessen Haus and Court Avenue Brewing, Bohnenkamp with The Nadas. Together with chef Tag Grandgeorge (ArtHouse) they bring Des Moines its first piano bistro, an identity emphasized by placing the two piano stage in a Grand Avenue window. Exposed wiring, plumbing, air ducts and concrete block walls give the East Village space an urban look that is dominated by a deep purple paint job that escaped from the black-light days of the 1960s.

A dependable music format (Wednesdays is Pianopalooza with Jared Hall and Bohnenkamp; Thursdays is jazz night and weekends brings in touring piano acts) attracts a regular evening crowd, but GPB wears different hats at other times. Smoking was permitted, but only after 10 p.m. Different menus were offered for lunch and dinner and there was a fixed price menu at dinner. All were eclectic and emphasized small plates. Kitchen dynamics have settled down since opening in May and a downsized, seasonal menu is simpler and better now.

Star attractions began with prime rib canapés with Dijon vinaigrette and roasted peppers, squash empanadas with braised pork, apple cider-glazed pork tenderloin with sweet potatoes and an apple crepe. They hit their zenith in the form of duck sliders with green peppercorn mayonnaise. Popular Asian assimilations like Spring rolls with dipping sauce, chicken salad lettuce wraps and satay skewers with peanut sauce won’t disappoint their fans. A short “bowls” menu included a good beef bourginon and several creative pasta dishes.

Lunches all slid under the $9 threshold and included some of the aforementioned stars of the dinner table, plus some sandwiches like French dip and hot ham melts. Side dishes were a real bonus. Very thin and crisp French fries were served with margarita salt and lime. Steamed broccolini and black bean and roasted corn potato salad also improved the choices.

Some mistakes weren’t corrected in the first six months. Roasted peppers were still being served unpeeled and the only soy sauce available was still extremely high in sodium — that’s fine for cooking but not for condiment tray. Other small touches were exceptional. Desserts came from the superb Sweet Binney’s. Bills were presented in a stylish, Sticks-designed folder. The fare was quite reasonable, too — a $28 fixed price menu included a glass of wine and several of the kitchen’s best dishes (prime rib canapés). Fifteen wines ranged $30 - $50, with everything available by the glass. Fifty niche-brewery beers ranged $4 - $6.25.

Side dishes
East Village’s restaurant dynamics will rev up Thanksgiving weekend with the anticipated opening of Miyabi 9 just east of Grand Piano Bistro. Chef-owner Miyabi Yamamoto brings 45 years of Japanese culinary experience to his 46-seat café. Our gain is Boston’s loss. … Tequila University graduated its first class last week at Dos Rios. … The opening of the Brasserie in Hotel Fort Des Moines has been pushed back to February. … BRAVO! Cucina Italiana is offering 23 of its recipes on a CD for the holidays. Half the proceeds benefit Make-A-Wish. CV

Grand Piano Bistro
506 E. Grand Ave., 681-3937
Mon. 11 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Tues. 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.
(bar open till midnight)
Wed. - Fri. 11 a.m.2 p.m. and 5 p.m. – 10 p.m. (bar open till 2 a.m.)
Sat. 11a.m. – 10 p.m. (bar till 2 a.m.)

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