By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com
Trawling
for trailer tripe
 Des
Moines is in a love-hate relationship
with trailer cafés. We
love them for providing entry-level
opportunities for young entrepreneurs,
but their low rent lifestyle sometimes
competes unfairly with brick and
mortar restaurants. After the
city cracked down on trailer cafés
last year, they’ve become harder
to find, but definitely worth
the effort. These are some of
the best:
Parrothead, 2nd Ave. at Franklin
Ave.
The grandfather of trailer luncheonettes
in Des Moines, Parrothead shares
a parking lot and a “gone fishin’”
attitude with a bait shop. Don’t
be fooled though, it’s also a
respectable caterer. Many folks
consider these $6 burgers to be
the best in town. I love their
Graziano sausage sandwiches.
Ponderosa, 21st St, just north
of Forest Avenue, 508-1503, cason1407@msn.com
Moe Cason competed on the Kansas
City BBQ Society circuit last
year and ranked 22nd out of 640
in ribs nationally, in his rookie
season. His brisket might be better
than his ribs. Moe’s chicken and
pulled pork aren’t bad either.
Excellent collard greens, pork-laden
baked beans and macaroni and cheese
elevate this trailer to the top
of Iowa’s soul food rankings,
too. Moe sets up on Forest on
weekends when he’s not competing.
He will let you know his schedule
if you call or e-mail him. He’s
also looking for a permanent sit-down
restaurant.
Parker’s BBQ, 2002 Indianola
Ave., 681-2806, Intakemparkbbq@aol.com
Archie Parker runs a close second
to Cason in our smokehouse rankings.
His baby backs are excellent.
The pulled pork and brisket don’t
compromise flavor like so many
sit-down Q’s do. I have driven
by his Indianola Avenue location
probably 20 times for every time
it’s been open, but I’ve found
him selling at numerous festivals,
etc. He’s usually the best vendor
there.
JJ’s Catering - New Orleans Home
Style Cooking, 277-7243, Jessejdesmoines@aol.com
This Jesse James is no easier
to find than his infamous namesake.
I’ve never seen him in the same
place twice [except After Work
Release shows at Blues on Grand
where his food is a weekly attraction
during the series], but he’s always
a welcome sight, frying catfish
and fresh cut Cajun fries that
rank at the top of any list. He
also makes jambalaya, Italian
sausage sandwiches, gumbo and
grilled chicken, with Louisiana
love.
Tacos, 1415 S.E. Maury Ave.
This no-name trailer consistently
offers rare specialties like horchata,
grilled green onions, brains,
tongue and tripe, in addition
to the sausage, roast pork and
grilled beef one expects at a
good tacqueria. Their never-rubbery
tongue might be the best in town.
Chorizo and pastor have an excellent
seasoning. Double tortilla tacos
cost $1.50 and huge burritos $5.50,
slightly more than others charge,
but worth it. A concrete patio
offers three picnic tables and
shade.
Villanueva’s, approximately 1521
E. Grand Ave.
The most artful of local tacquerias,
Villanueva’s is consistently one
of the busiest. Shade, picnic
tables and an adjacent bakery
add to its draw. Like all tacquerias,
it offers pork, beef and sausage
fillings in double tortilla tacos,
tortas (Mexican hogies) and burritos.
It also adds tripas (tripe) to
the menu.
Tacos Jerez, approximately 2126
S.E. 14th St.
A small tent provides little shade
here, but there’s lots of free
parking. The usual tortas, burritos,
tacos and pastor are reliably
good. This is the only place in
town I have found buche, which
is like tripas cooked in lard.
Tacos Tarascos, S.E. 14th St.
&
Edison Ave.
Another place with inadequate
shade on blistering days, but
the usual good food.
Nollen Plaza
I’m not sure if the cart vendors
of Nollen Plaza even qualify for
this genre because most are outlets
of permanent restaurants. The
busiest vendor seems to be Coney
Island, and I’ve never seen them
actually cook anything; they just
plate prepared foods like gyros,
Polish sausages and hotdogs. Saverio’s
grills onions and brats and turkey
tenders, chicken breasts and Polish
sausage. Great Midwestern does
the most creative cooking, grilling
skirt steak tacos, prepped Ruebens
on marbled rye, BBQ pork and hot
dogs. CV
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