TNT & the New MLK

By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com

Eleven years ago, a Crips street gang leader was murdered a block west of the Martin Luther King Boulevard (MLK), outside the TNT Lounge. That killing precipitated the worst series of shootings among rival gangs in Des Moines history. It also gave the MLK a false reputation as being central to a dangerous gangland turf war. At the very least, the reputation has outlived the troubles. The Family Cafè, a magnet for violence, gunfire, drunkenness and vandalism, has been converted into a real family cafè, the stalwart Bibb's BBQ and Tenderloin.

The TNT Lounge now houses Citizens for Community Improvement. But nothing represents the good news about changing times on the MLK so much as the new TNT. TNT Vietnamese Restaurant is not an intended reference to the unfortunate history of the neighborhood. It's named after owners Vincent Dinh and wife Emi Hoang, who share the Vietnamese name of Thanh. They opened the place three years ago after working five jobs between them for seven years. Their restaurant anchors one of the most multicultural shopping centers in town. It's much more than a restaurant. On one visit, we appreciated the service that was given to a special needs customer, who walked in a bit dazed and confused. He had a limited budget but was treated like an honored guest.

Not everyone will be dazzled by the service here. I have been bothered by second-hand smoke - some customers don't pay attention to the "no smoking" signs. The place seems to stand-in as a day care center at times, too. Children's TV shows can get loud, and once a fractious child was frantically trying hard to break his toys near my feet without much adult supervision. If that sort of thing drives you nuts, this is not the place for you. It suits a diverse crowd just fine though, with an equal mix of business suits and the more casual garb of retirees. The cafè is designed for practicality, not romance. There is a single open room with oil-cloth tablecloths and the tackiest of plastic flowers.

The menu is standard Vietnamese, without many concessions to Chinese-American tastes. Some cutting-edge items, like chao tom, appear and were well-executed. Our order delivered perfectly grilled shrimp on sugar cane sticks, with fresh greens. Similarly, bo tai chanh brought rare roast beef in lime juice and chili sauce, a south east Asian take on steak tartare. The measure of any Vietnamese place is its pho, and TNT's was just fine, a deep bone broth with cellophane noodles, lime, bean sprouts and basil so fresh it still sweat where it had been picked. Plus, perfectly rare sliced beef was served, as ordered, on the side. Why can't a single deli in town consistently deliver similarly rare roast beef? Bun bo xao (stir-fried beef with noodles) was expert, and a pork version of the same noodles dish was even better. Both reminded me more of what I expect in Mexican cafŽs than Vietnamese. In each case, the meats were more like grilled steaks than the chopstick-sized pieces one finds in other Asian cafès. They came fresh off the grill with perfect char marks, good sear and fresh juices.

Vietnamese specialty beverages like iced coffee, red bean paste drinks and tropical fruits juices were well represented and served as great summertime desserts. It's becoming difficult to distinguish among Vietnamese restaurants in Des Moines. Like too many Mexican restaurants, they all seem to be settling on nearly identical menus and suppliers. Some places are hipper (Ha Dao), some are more personalized cuisine-wise (777), and some are more inclusive (Fuzion). None, though, means so much to its neighborhood as this new TNT.

Food Skinny

Tonight (Aug. 16) is fresh Canadian walleye night and next Wednesday is live Maine lobster night at Waterfront...The excellent Pujabi restaurant India Star has moved west, into the old Arirang location on 5514 Douglas. CV

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