By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com

Once again, rising gas prices have pundits asking why we don't have a train system like Japan's. Food writers have a more reasonable inquiry: Why can't we have sports bars like the Japanese, whose fans identify with their sushi stylist as much as with teams? While American sports stadiums upgrade club amenities to opera-class levels, sports bars remain the domain of average food, cheap beer and hi-def TV. Having visited a foodie's dream sports bar recently (Winchell's in Lexington, KY.), I went looking for the state of the art in Des Moines.

Star Bar does not claim sports-bar status, but it works that field, with muted TV's tuned exclusively to games. More importantly, both its bar and kitchen compete in the majors. An all-star lineup of draft beers included Anchor Steam, Fuller's, Widmer Hefewiezen, Strongbow, Warsteiner Pils and Guinness, among others. Even the non-alcoholic offerings were elite.

The place looks like a golfers' clubhouse - wood, brass, mirrors and macho colors. Artwork by the likes of Chris Vance, John Philip Davis and Frank Hansen signal the kitchen's fresh and local philosophy. As much as anyone, chef/owner Jeremy Morrow has upgraded Des Moines dining the past 10 years. His Bistro 43 was one of the first two places to forge relationships with individual farmers and ranchers for the best local produce. His 43 took those connections to a broader audience and upgraded hotel food in the city. If anyone can redefine bar food, it's Jeremy.

Star Bar salads are as good as it gets. The "arugula with pine nuts, roasted peppers and chevre" is almost erotic - greens this young and spicy are not allowed out after dark in many countries. For diversity, there is a "chicken with crispy noodle salad" and a "steak salad with blue cheese," but the arugula would be my nomination as Des Moines' MVP.

Small plates covered multicultural bases. Jambalaya was hearty, with sausage dominating seafood. Stir-fried green beans cross-dated with ginger and garlic. Chicken fingers and "goat cheese with bread" deservedly have loyal fans. The usual suspects are also covered here; Chicken wings, onion rings and spinach dip are all given a deft touch. Our spring rolls flopped, though. Paired with a "mango salsa" that tasted like canned fruit cocktail, it also came with a remoulade that tasted simply of sweetness, where the heat of chili or wasabi, and the salt of soy was needed.

The sandwich menu soared. A fine $7 burger came with a choice of fries, black beans, potato salad or mixed green salad. The potato salad was exceptional, with a horseradish bite. Fries disappointed, now that Dish has upgraded expectations for these. We also ordered a Niman Ranch burger, at $11, which came badly overcooked, but it's still a nice option, especially for those who like burgers less than well done. A "Boss Hog" pork fritter, with ham, bacon, Jack and grilled onions belongs in the pork tenderloin hall of fame. The Cuban sandwich lacked the dominant taste of roast pork we expect (from South Union models). Goat cheese panini and fried eggplant offerings covered the vegetarian bases with panache.

Brunch was more uneven than regular service. Both shrimp & grits and steak & mushroom hash were big league, but Belgian waffles tasted stale and cold and were served with sliced strawberries so under ripe that they had no red color at all. Price levels were family friendly: Niman Ranch ribeye for less than $20, with salad and fries; all other big plates under $14; and kid's plates all less than $6.

Food News

Court Avenue Brewing Company's spring beer dinner May 16 will include five courses, all made and served with beer. Reservations: 282-2739..."Guess What?," Casa Di Vino's blind wine tasting May 11, offers prizes for correctly identifying the most wines. CV

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