By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com

Each spring, like a migratory bird, I return to Waterfront. Winter is hard enough to compromise me into settling for seafood from my local supermarkets. And it's long enough to delude me into thinking that stuff looks "pretty fresh." Come Lent, when human DNA craves fish, something rips the blinders off and sends me to the real mackerel.

This year it was COOL (country of origin labeling) compliance. The 2003 Farm Bill ordered grocers to inform us where and how our foods lived. Last October, seafood was ordered to comply. At first, my neighborhood Hy-Vee and Dahl's provided required information in easy-to-read forms. By March, the Sharpie ink at Dahl's seafood counter had faded and Hy-Vee had substituted an obscure graph for labeling. I went to Waterfront to see if compliance had become as difficult for them. It hadn't, and one look in their display case overwhelmed me with shame, forever accepting false prophets. Moonfish, wahoo, sea bass, swordfish, king salmon, halibut, dolphin fish, big eye and yellowfin were all gleaming with a quality I had not seen all winter. These days, most ocean fish, even the best sashimi, is flash frozen to kill parasites. Most tuna are gassed to preserve color. So how Waterfront's look and taste so much more like they just came out of the water is a deep-blue mystery.

The restaurant part of this market-cafè is the clockwork of Clock Tower Square. A line of people is always waiting for the place to open at 11 a.m., and again at 5 p.m. Most of the wait staff has been there for years, even decades. Such reputation and loyalty come from mutual understanding. Despite the huge distances the star attractions travel to get here, Waterfront represents our state well. We Iowans believe that our food should taste like itself, that it not wear wigs and powder. Waterfront offers few tricks to accentuate primal freshness. Who else sets Cervia artisan sea salt crystals in an Alessi grinder on each table?

Above all, the chefs understand the preeminent rule of Iowa cooking - "First do no harm." It's not easy to find fish this good, so why blur natural assets with overcooking or heavy sauces? Waterfront fish is thankfully offered plain and simple - grilled over fruitwood, sautèed, baked, pan-fried or deep-fried in two good batters; and for even less alteration, there is a very short, but good, sushi menu. Yellowtail and salmon sashimi were first rate. "Tuna" was maguro, and disappointed. Of course, a California roll here used real crab, unlike most places. However, something went wrong with my eel roll; the unagi was too tough and smoky.

I verified that Waterfront still makes the best gumbo and clam chowder in town. For decades I have rued the fate of all the fresh shrimp shells this place must waste, instead of turning them into bisque the equal of their gumbo. Sadly, that is still the case.

A king salmon special delivered a perfectly "rare" (it's important to accentuate such orders) fish. Paella Night brought a wonderful version of Valencia's gift to the rice world: fresh shrimp, scallops, mussels and clams joined halibut, lobster, chicken and prosciutto. Color and flavor suggested real saffron, too. A potato-encrusted halibut was marvelous. An oyster po' boy delivered to-die-for fried blue points, in an unnecessary dressing. And side dishes and desserts didn't swim in the same ponds as the fish. This too represents Iowa where a baked potato, an order of french fries, iceberg salad, bad pilaf or ubiquitous steamed veggies are simply "good enough."

Food News

On another waterfront, Ben Stanbrough, formerly of Valley West Pub, is the new chef at Saylorville's Harbor Grille where the floating dock accommodates diners and call-in orders are delivered by boat. CV

Comment on this story | Return to top