By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com

The "Vietnamese cafè" is redefining itself. After a quarter century in Des Moines, some of the changes are sad. A Dong, author of the original definition, is operating under the rules of bankruptcy, a victim of eminent domain. Mimosa is no more. That most stylish suburban cafè served French Colonial cuisine, but was ahead of its time, or at least ahead of Clive's. The excellent mom and pop cafè Pho All Seasons is now for sale. While others (Saigon Cafè, China Garden) have successfully morphed into restaurants serving a less ethnic suburban constituency.

Elsewhere, the transformation has been confusing. Recently, Lucky Dragon opened where Romance Cafè used to be. Cafè Fuzion took over the old Ha Dao space and Ha Dao re-opened just across the street from Lucky Dragon, and next door to Double Dragon Grocery. Together these new places represent the state of the art. On recent visits, all were buzzing with big crowds of mostly Asian diners.

I began researching this review after hearing that Lucky Dragon had filled one of Des Moines' culinary voids - for dim sum. Alas, between our first and second visits, that service ended, for a familiar reason.

"We tried, but nobody ordered it. So, no more, thank you, sorry."

Still, Lucky Dragon was the best, and oddest, of the three new places. The single dining room is themed in pairs: two levels of seating, two bars (one for bubble teas), two sets of bathrooms, two aquariums and two doors at the entrance. The fish tanks rest in front of a Buddhist shrine and adjacent to a dartboard. Dècor is full of import store clichès like artificial orchids and live bamboo. And while the parking lot was littered and dirty, the restaurant was clean.

They also served the best pho of the three restaurants. Broth was rich and glistened with just enough fat to assure it was made the old-fashioned way, from daylong bone stock. Crispy shrimp were an extraordinary appetizer at under $4, with six large shrimp perfectly golden. Along with some decent pot stickers, spring rolls and fried dumplings, one can still improvise dim sum here. Coffee drinks were excellent, served in French presses. Bubble teas tasted more of canned than fresh fruits.

Hao Dao is THE hot spot. Stage lights and ceiling-high sets of speakers suggest that, but big crowds at all hours testify to it. Music and video were delightfully in synch here, unlike most places. We were assured the pho was made from bone stock, but it lacked the deep flavors of Lucky Dragon's. The most ambitious menu item here is whole steamed "sea bass," a bargain at under $15. Tom yums, ladna and gyoza showed the diversity of the menu. We enjoyed a unique bun (noodle dish), with generous portions of roasted pork, from what appeared to be several parts of a hog.

Cafè Fuzion was no more fusionist than the others. Asked what distinguished it from Ha Dao, a waiter told me it was still the same. Pho was the weakest I tried. A marinated quail dish was generous but lacked the lemongrass flavor we expected. A pork chop (with eggs) had more of that flavor. The most unusual offerings here were fried-banana desserts, but, for the most part, the menus at all three places were similar. All mixed in some Thai, Chinese and Lao. Presentations were pretty much the same, too. That's not a bad thing. It just makes distinctions difficult. Cafè Fuzion's service was the most consistently helpful, though all three places were above average.

Lucky Dragon
1452 2nd Avenue, 288-3936
Mon., Wed. - Fri.: 10 a.m. - 9 p.m.; Sat. - Sun.: 9 a.m. - 9 p.m., closed Tues.

Cafè Fuzion
1240 E. 14th St., 262-8488
Mon. - Sat.: 11 a.m. - 9 p.m.; Sun.: 11 a.m. - 6 p.m.

Pho Hao Dao
1521 Second Ave., 288-1277
Sun. - Thurs.:10 a.m. -9 p.m.; Fri. - Sat.: 10 a.m. - 10 p.m.

Food News

Casa di Vino presents a crash course on distinguishing good merlots from the majority, on Feb. 28. On March 9, the restaurant hosts a sit-down cheese and wine paring, $25.00. Reservations: 253-9463

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