By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com

Christopher's has balanced family casualness and fine dining since before the days of liquor by the drink. Regular customers think it's the most comfortable place in town, but to a Des Moines writer, it's the ultimate in intimidation, the haunt of two of the most intelligent scribes who ever penned local commentary. Donald Kaul and James Flansburg hung their hats here, as did the restaurant's ultimate cheerleader, Jim "I love it, I love it" Zabel, who publicly endorsed only this one restaurant. So, what could I possibly say to add or detract from its legacy?

Like Chuck's, Noah's and Gino's, this Beaverdale institution has made a seamless transition to a second generation of its founding family. The wisdom of elders ensured the emphasis remains on the floor. The Giudecessis stay visible, taking care of guests, not tucked away in the kitchen like most post-Food Channel restaurateurs.

No one has ever informed we of a bad dining experience at Christopher's, and there are few places in town, of any age, I can say that about. One recent visit would indicate why. When asked how our steak was, I told the server it was slightly overcooked. He said they'd start another steak, I insisted the error was too slight for such measures. Then he suggested a complimentary dessert and I said I was too full. As wIleft, he delivered a "to go" bag of dessert anyway. Most impressively, he was empowered to do this on his own - no managers had seen us that night.

On another visit, I was surprised that pan-fried chicken was off the menu. The restaurant's reputation was built on this dish, and Zabel praised it as far as WHO's 50,000-watt signal could reach. No problem, it's just on the "reserve menu" now. Mine was made as it always was, in cast-iron skillets salvaged from the restaurant's infamous fire, and in peanut oil's high heat.

But while great service remains constant, some things have changed. The bordello-like "Red Room" has been discretely replaced with blonde oak paneling, stressed beige walls and faux-marble sconces. A 100-seat bar, the only smoking area, is still the hearth of the place, but it heats up slower than it did in Kaul's day, when it was packed by 3:05 p.m. each afternoon. The Saturday-only burgers are still as good as they get, but now bar-room pizza has devotees.

Appetizers evolved like the versatile, short wine list. We tried some beef tenderloin skewers in a Thai sauce that could serve as an entree. Boursin-stuffed mushrooms and artichoke/spinach dip with pita chips were splendidly presented. Christopher's bruschetta is our favorite, with mozzarella and parmesan topping tomatoes, onions, fresh garlic and basil. A roast pear and caramelized walnut salad, served with champagne vinaigrette and gorgonzola is an entire meal, even without optional shrimp.

The pasta menu mixed family Calabrese recipes for lasagna and marinara with Northern Italian versions of chicken Parmessano and Sophia, made with garlic, basil, tomato, mushrooms and light cream sauce. Meatballs came accommodatingly, with any kind of pasta.

EntrŽes included a good fusion version of salmon, in a red wine ginger sauce. Chicken was represented on the official menu by three breast-only versions, including saltimbocca, topped with artichokes, prosciutto and fresh sage. Aged steaks and prime rib starred though. The latter roasted from scratch, 20 hours at low heat. My classic cut was huge, yet dwarfed by the "Buck Cut" named for another legend of the old days, Buck Carter.

But, of course, that's another story.

Food news

The 25th Street CafŽ struck the first blow in this year's Valentine's Day wars. Chef Hal Jasa announced a single seating, 10-course dinner that includes chocolate and wine in every course. For Aphrodite, think: Oysters in a white chocolate crme fraiche; and curry and butter poached lobster tails with white chocolate foam, with mint and pea capalacci. $170. Reservations: 255-0535. CV

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