By Jim Duncan
CVFDude@aol.com
Twitter.com/foodude

Angry catfish at Aroy-Dee, 2128 Indianola Ave., 528-8009. Hours are 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., daily. Kurry Xpress, 1679 N.W. 86th St., Clive, 223-2202. Hours are 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. on Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.

Kurry Xpress (KX) of Omaha expanded recently into a challenging strip mall in Clive. A Vietnamese crawfish joint and a Mexican restaurant both gave up after short runs in the same location. Because of a new traffic island, northbound 86th Street provides the only entrance or exit. That’s a clue — the word “Xpress” is related to the verb “express,” as in “express yourself,” not the adjective, as in “express delivery.”

The store had been remodeled with wooden tables and chairs plus new blinds. The latter had stickers attached warning of the dangers of strangulation and its many complications. Lots can happen while you wait for an order. On each of my visits, everyone ordering at the counter was told “20 to 25 minutes” were required. My order, even drinks, actually took 41 minutes on my first visit and two items didn’t make it all. The next time, I called ahead and my food was waiting when I arrived 35 minutes later. The dining room was rather full each time, mostly with people waiting for carryout orders. Indian movies played on one TV with volume while muted Country Western music played on another — Toby Keith seemed to be singing a Hindi dance tune.

South Indian dishes were full of bold flavors. I tried two called “Chettinad,” a word which can refer to a region as well as to the Hindu caste devoted to the culinary arts. A lamb dish by that name tasted of coriander and tender meat with curry leaves, red chilies, fennel and poppy seeds in a tomato-based gravy. My lamb vindaloo was not nearly as flavorful as the Chetinnad style. Cumin rich tadka dhal (yellow lentils) was served in a superb reduction of onions, tomatoes, garlic and ginger. Saag paneer (homemade cheese with spinach) was less creamy than others in town. Naan (bread) was thinner and crispier than what Des Moines is used to. Samosa chaat (egg roll snacks) buried pieces of chopped samosa at the bottom of cholay masala (chick pea stew). Rice stuck to the paper plates on which it was served — even turned upside down. “Take-out” orders were served in plastic containers with lids, “dine-in” orders in the same containers without lids.

Despite liking some curries, it’s hard to recommend KX. Namaste is just 12 blocks away with more sophisticated South Indian cuisine, considerably better service, comparable prices, a lunch buffet, a beer and wine license and easy access. Movies are similar though.

Across town, Tong Baccam seems to have found an ideal spot to introduce Vietnamese cuisine to the south side. His Aroy-Dee (Thai for “yummy-yeah”) has taken over another location that saw multiple cafés quickly come and go. Remodeling added tables plus an entryway that reduced winter drafts. Business was booming on each of my visits distinguished by quick, friendly service.

Owner chef Baccam opened this place after selling the popular Vietnamese café Pho Ha Dao. Fans of the latter can find most of the Indo Chinese dishes they liked there plus some 25 Chinese choices. That means bargains like an entire angry catfish with rice for just $8.50. “House special” stir-fry dishes cost as little as $6.50. Bun thit nuong (rice noodles with grilled pork) included eight vegetables and lemon sauce for $6.50. Pho tai chin (beef stock noodle soup) lacked the rich brothy flavor of the best in town (TNT), but delivered excellent brisket and rare rounds of beef plus a plate of fresh culantro, cilantro, sprouts, chilies and basil for as little as $7.

Side Dishes

In just 15 months, All Spice owner Alex Rhodes influenced as many top chefs as anyone in Des Moines has. May cinnamon angels sing him to his rest. CV