By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com
Twitter.com/foodude
Humbling times for food snobs
Former Gourmet editor Barry Estabrook resurfaced this month in the Atlantic
with "The Farmers Market Myth" debunking the perception that farmers'
markets are expensive places where "only rich food snobs can afford to
shop." Estabrook cited two studies, with one by Iowa State University's
Leopold Center, showing that fresh produce is actually less expensive at farmers
markets than at supermarkets in the same towns. His conclusion: "It's
getting harder to be elitist these days." No kidding. Zagat, the "Burgundy
Bible" of restaurant ratings, jeopardized their brand in recent years
by including fast food chains. Food snobs such as I rarely venture to such
places because industrial corporations don't allow much creativity, and independent
restaurants do more for local economies. However, if Zagat dispatches its food
snobs to review chains, I felt duty bound to check out their champions.
Zagat's latest survey divided fast food chains into three categories — large
chains (up to 5,000 outlets), mega-chains (more than 5,000) and quick-refreshment
chains (specializing in frozen desserts and drinks). Wendy's was "top
food" champion amongst mega-chains. Its burger also finished atop all
locally represented chains. I found little new on my visit to Wendy's, just
some lukewarm fries being touted for their "natural cut" and "sea
salt." My burgers had a good sear but did not taste at all like they
were fresh off a grill. Buns were cold and stale. Wendy's single burger also
cost as much my usual go-to burger — the always fresh-off-the-grill
quarter-pounder at Big City Burger & Greens, which is always served on
a freshly baked potato bun with superior condiments. Wendy's also charged
for cheese on my cheese-less burgers.
My first-ever visits to Panera Bread Company impressed me much more. Zagat
rated Panera's salads the best of all chains and their facilities the best
among large chains. Ironically, my salads were the least impressive thing
I found at the handsome, sparkling downtown Panera's. Service was stellar,
sandwiches were generous and featured good, freshly-baked breads. However,
salad greens were unvaried, brownish and served with dressings that seemed
inappropriately heavy on emulsification. My visits will not sway me away
from La Mie, which is less expensive, bakes exquisite breads, makes bone
stock soups and purer salad dressings served on fresher, more interesting
greens. Still, Panera impressed me more than any other chain I visited.
Zagat cited Jason's Deli for best "healthy options" among large
chains. My first-ever visit found an all-you-can-eat salad bar and "free
ice cream" somewhat off message. I noticed folks piling half a dozen
boiled eggs on their salad plates. Still, a manager told me the store had
removed all trans fats, high fructose corn syrup (HFCS) and artificial dyes
from its foods. I guess they don't count soft drinks like Coke, which is
a major delivery system for HFCS. My usual deli favorites didn't survive
the menu cut. Mortadella, corned beef or pastrami briskets, prosciutto, sorpressata,
capicola and pepperoni had been exorcised for leaner meats like chicken and
turkey breast. So Jason's seems to walk the "healthy" walk they
talk.
I also visited Chik-fil-A for the first time. It was runner-up for "best
food" among large chains and top rated overall for service. A manager
actually carried my tray for me, justifying that latter accolade. My top
rated grilled chicken though was over seasoned and over cooked.
Zagat also cited McDonald's as "best value, best value menu, best fries,
best breakfast, most child friendly, and the best drive-thru." KFC was
rated "best fried chicken," Long John Silver's "best fish," Starbucks "best
coffee," and DQ the "best milk shake." I found nothing new
that could add or detract from anyone's long-held opinions about any of those
familiar products and services.
Side Dishes
None of Zagat's top five rated "quick refreshment" chains (Ben & Jerry's, Häagen-Dazs, Brusters, Peets and Rita's) have outlet stores in central Iowa. Nor do Five Guys ("top burger") or In & Out ("top food" among large chains). Casa di Vino's going out of business sale began this week. All inventory is discounted until sold. CV
Caption: Panera's generous sandwiches were served of freshly baked breads.
