By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com
Ciao
Ciao brings a familiar local style to West Glen real estate where previous tenants failed to connect with the neighborhood. First Chicago’s “Crave Bar, Grill & Fondue Room” antagonized locals, suing one for trademark infringement even though she preceded them in town. Then “Graze — the Food Guru Experience” moved in from eastern Iowa. Des Moines’ food bloggers savaged that place, mostly resenting Vegas-style service that ranged from smarmy to rude. That assessment fit my experiences too when I felt I had stumbled into a nightclub without a bling badge.
On each of my visits to Ciao, up front service was as different from Graze’s as Des Moines is from Las Vegas. All customers were being asked where they would like to sit and even being made aware of fireplaces on a cold rainy night. Children were welcomed and senior citizens were treated with the same respect as décolletage busting hotties. Ostentatious design elements had been preserved, including red fantailed booths, spotlighted liquor cabinets, tall purple walls, and an open private room that hangs over the bar. Those things have been toned down though with paintings by local artists. Ciao also retained the best element of the previous tenant — cocktail methodology including freshly squeezed juices and syrups made from scratch daily.
Ciao’s dinner menu reaches out to fresh and local sources, superior ones like La Quercia (prosciutto and pancetta), Niman Ranch (pork), Cleverley Farms (arugula and salad greens), Outside the Lines (desserts), and South Union (breads). The restaurant has re-installed a Crave-like taste for salt and cheese. Fried olives were stuffed with Gorgonzola. Calamari was topped with Parmesan. Hand breaded onion rings were covered with Asiago. Bruschetta was topped with goat cheese. Mushrooms were stuffed with cream cheese. Chicken breasts were prepared with Boursin and Provolone. Lasagna was made with five cheeses, stuffed shells with three. One soup of the day was a good Cheddar leak with a rich cream base. The dominant flavor in breaded pork tenderloin “saltimbocca” was melted Gruyere and I have never heard of any cheese in that usual combination of prosciutto, marinated meat and sage (arugula in Ciao’s recipe). A featured beef tenderloin ravioli was overwhelmed with a creamy cheese sauce. However, I was told that recipe was about to be changed to a Bolognese sauce and also that cheese-free herb roasted chickens and steak de Burgo will be added as new chef Dave Malfara moves from Grand Piano Bistro.
My double boned pork chop was seared nicely, cooked perfectly medium, and served in a good demiglace with mashed potatoes and roasted baby carrots. Manicotti were filled with a good veal stuffing. Ciao’s signature dish is prime rib a la Guido (Fenu), a Des Moines legend that is encrusted with sea salt. Mine was served with grill marks on both sides. Assuming someone had mistakenly served me a steak, I complained. A manager apologized and quickly offered to replace it. On another occasion, an order of angel hair pasta was graciously split on two plates so that both a marinara and a pesto sauce could be sampled without running together.
Desserts included a tasting plate of tiramisu that was very subtle in its espresso flavor, a chocolate caramel mousse and a chocolate raspberry truffle. Triple fudge torte, espresso crème brulee and carrot cake completed a menu of Iowa favorites. Good coulis and oils decorated plates on all courses.
Bottom line — Ciao has said goodbye to clubby aspects of Graze while retaining its fresh drink recipes. It has added fresh and local foods, courteous democratic service, and enough cheese to satisfy a fondue Craving.
Night Moves
Scott Stroud moved from the kitchen of Alba to Django… Boonie Boone is now working at Alba… Arturo Mora is upgrading Christopher’s menu with high-end local sources such as Fox Hollow poultry. CV
Caption: Double boned pork chop at Ciao, 5513 Mills Civic Pkwy, West Des Moines, 440-2426.
Hours are Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to midnight.
