By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com
Grandma’s Apron
Metro Des Moines has a new record holder for fast restaurant turnover. In just six months, four different cafés operated in the same space on First Street in West Des Moines that was best known as the long-time home of The Nosh.
Bella Petras, which delighted this critic, closed last August and was succeeded by Mediterranean Grill & Vineyard, which closed in a matter of weeks. On New Year’s Eve, Iowa’s Bit of LA opened there with impressive taxidermy, a pool table, karaoke, and no clue what the name had to do with the fare. Its menu included a Cuban sandwich and a Cuban omelet, but nothing suggestive of Los Angeles’ ethnic populations. When I returned three days later, the menu had exorcised the Cuban dishes and staked out territory in the Iowa comfort food genre. A couple days after that, a new menu announced a new restaurant — Grandma’s Apron, and new ownership. That had to be the fastest turnover in local restaurant history. They didn’t miss a single day of business.
Understandably, things were confusing. When I asked for a clarification between a “chicken fried steak” and a “country fried steak,” I was told “I think one is made with steak that is steak and the other is made with chicken.” Intrigued I ordered the “chicken” one, which wasn’t really chicken but it wasn’t bad either. Other confusions persisted. When I asked for “butter, not margarine,” I was served margarine. When I asked for vinegar and oil for a salad, I was told that neither of those things were stocked, but that Italian dressing was similar. It turned out to be orange and creamy. Soup was only offered in large bowls, although cups were available for other things. Candor during the transitions was gratifying. On one occasion, a server offered complimentary desserts and then added, “To tell the truth, we have to get rid of them.”
Some dishes were more comforting than others. My hot beef sandwich consisted of white industrial bread, very dark, chemically flavored gravy, flavorless mashed potatoes and a huge mound of thinly sliced, processed beef that was stiff on the edges and gelatinous in the center. Another day I was served fabulous mashed potatoes with good sausage gravy. Hopefully that’s a sign the kitchen is moving toward more scratch cooking. Similarly, one day’s side of canned corn was replaced later in the week by a side of green beans with color and texture suggesting freshness rather than brininess. A burger had a nice sear and a fresh bun. Steak stroganoff could have comforted a family of four with copious amounts of sirloin cubes in a homemade sauce on limp industrial pasta. A spaghetti and meatball special was also humongous, with good meatballs.
Breakfast was the most consistent meal. French toast was nicely dusted in powdered sugar, though served with cold syrup. Eggs and hash browns were hot and cooked as ordered. Homemade sausage patties were as thick as meatballs. Sausage gravy was again a highlight.
The restaurant’s new title brings a delightful gimmick — customers are encouraged to bring photos of their grandmothers to post on the restaurant walls. Recipes from customers’ grandmothers will become daily specials, at half price for the recipe provider. Other specials include all-you-can-eat fish (Fridays), buffet-style brunch (Sunday) and prime rib (Saturday).
Bottom line — Grandma’s Apron provides diner style comfort food in a venue desperately seeking identity.
Side Dishes
Chips initiated a daily comfort food special for $10 at dinner, $8 at lunch, including its popular homemade fried chicken on Sundays… The comfort food stalwart Urbandale Café reopened with new owners and in a new location at 100th and Douglas… Chef’s Kitchen, home of build-your-own hash browns, added breakfast service on Saturdays and Sundays. CV
Caption: French toast at Grandma’s Apron, 800 1st St., West Des Moines, 274-1108. Hours are Sunday through Thursday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.
