By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com
Pho HaDao anchors Des Moines’ Asian food strip
After three decades in Des Moines, the “Vietnamese café” has become a distinctive genre. It wasn’t easy. A Dong, the original Vietnamese café in town, survived an eminent domain seizure and moved downtown. The superb “mom & pop” Pho All Seasons twice re-emerged after long closings. Saigon Café and China Garden moved west, morphing into restaurants serving less ethnic suburban constituencies. Fawn’s took the reverse path, moving from the suburbs to the eastside. After Café Fuzion took over the old HaDao space on E 14th Street, Pho HaDao re-opened on Second Avenue next door to Double Dragon Grocery and within a block of both Le’s BBQ and Lucky Dragon. Together, those superb establishments comprise a Second Avenue strip that is the closest thing in town to a Little Saigon — even a Mexican tienda is Asian owned.
On my recent visits to Pho HaDao, the place buzzed with big crowds of mostly Asian diners. Feng shui was respected with two aquariums, paintings of seven horses, seven Buddhas and two bulls dispensing toothpicks. Karaoke equipment, now mostly reserved for special occasions, was inconspicuous. Ceiling high speakers and a stage, once the site of a memorable Asian Elvis-imitator duel, have been removed. Diners were respected with new, American takes on feng shui. The fish tanks sat under a big screen TV, usually tuned to American sports channels and a free soup bar greeted customers with a different complimentary offering each weekday. Coupled with a $4 daily special, that’s the best lunch bargain anywhere near downtown.
Crispy chicken wings were large, golden and crunchy in panko breading. Spring rolls surprised me with a variety of greens, plus the usual rice noodles and cold pork wrapped in translucent rice paper and served cold. Chili oil, chili sauce, hoisin sauce and peanut dipping sauce were all served on the side. Fried pork rolls, served golden and crunchy, were more typical.
Namesake pho (beef noodle soup) is still the primary reason for visiting. Broth was rich and glistened with just enough fat to assure it was made the old fashioned way — from baked beef bones that were simmered for 24 hours. The chef told me he prefers knees and shins when he can get them. That wonderful stock was ladled over rice noodles and a choice of several meats, tofu or seafood. “Flank” could have passed for the best brisket. Perfectly “rare” slices of round were served on the side as requested. Tendon, tripe and meatballs were also offered. One garnish plate included basil, mint and bean sprouts. Another brought thinly sliced, fresh Thai chilies, both red and green babies that flirted with the upper levels of the Scoville charts. (Waiters happily accommodated thrill seeking chili freaks.) Lime wedges were served to add an acid kick.
Bun (wheat noodles) dishes resembled Chinese noodle stir-fries, except they came with a bowl of lemon sauce. Basil dishes resembled Thai stir-fries. Curry dishes were milder than most Thai varieties. I couldn’t tell any difference between pad thai and fried egg noodle dishes. In all cases, lots of fresh vegetables dominated. Mi Xao (egg noodle stir fry dishes) could be ordered with deep fried, or soft noodles. My fried version was nicely crisped. Steamed rice pork chops were served delightfully under sunny side up eggs. Quail is a specialty I have liked but it wasn’t available recently. Whole deep fried catfish, served with HaDao (tomato) sauce, could pass for Cajun. There was also a short Chinese menu. Bubble teas, smoothies and soy drinks (white or green) were not made with fresh fruits.
Bottom line — Pho HaDao anchors the Second Avenue Asian strip and that’s where one finds the best Vietnamese food in town.
Side Dish
The Mandarin, long time fixture in Beaverdale, reopened as The Mandarin Grill & Sushi Bar, on 128th St. in Clive, near Trostel’s Dish… Soy scientists discovered a bean that raises Omega 3 counts, desirable in heart health. CV
Caption: Namesake pho is the main reason for visiting, Pho HaDao, 1521 2nd Ave., 288-1277. Hours are Sunday and Monday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
