By Jim Duncan CVFDude@aol.com
Bandana’s Bar-B-Q
Every time I review a new barbecue, my mailbox fills with denouncements of “the flesh trade.” I would happily review the new vegan café, if there were one, but the Iowa stomach wants what the Iowa stomach wants.
That seems to be more barbecues. With more than 150 seats, Bandana’s new store in West Des Moines is the biggest Q in town. At rush hours, it was slammed, too. Style choices sent conflicting signals. The place looked Texan, with red and white bandanas, cowboy photographs and ranch paraphernalia. Yet it also incorporated some genuine local antiques from Valley Junction’s halcyon era. One framed artifact featured a hand-written page from a 1945 United States Department of Agriculture accounting ledger listing the number of farm machines by state. Iowa led the nation then in both tractors and manure spreaders.
If those were the good old days, Bandana’s smokehouse keeps the faith. Everything was smoked solely with hickory. Such authentic barbecue is an endangered species, falling victim to environmental protection codes that forbid wood burning. That’s why some so-called barbecue chains simulate wood smoking rather than doing the dirty work of the real thing. My waiters quickly informed me that Bandana’s is a “southern style barbecue” and explained that meant no steaks or burgers, just smoked meats. It also meant side benefits like boiled peanuts were available. Surprisingly, Bandana’s is not Texan. This St. Louis based chain originated in Florida. There was no brisket at all and not much beef. All meats were dry-rubbed with a “brown sugar seasoning” and smoked without sauce. All were hand-cut, whether you asked for that or not.
Barbecued beef sandwiches were made from shoulders and were pulled and chopped. Mine was dry. Pulled pork shoulder was the best product I tried here, on multiple occasions. It was moister and juicier than other meats, with the kind of multiple textures you get by correctly including a little skin. Half a chicken brought dark meat that was dryer than The Q’s white meat. Bandana’s white meat was barely chewable, reducing it to a delivery system for sauce and beer. Chicken skin was too tough to chew at all. Ribs had nice smoke rings and enough bone-clinging to impress a competition judge. I tried both St. Louis and Baby Back (which included a surcharge) and could not distinguish any differences — both seemed to be cut from the same rib area. They were served as individual bones. That gave the appearance of diligent service, but ribs stay juicier when left in tact. Sausage (beef and pork combinations) links had good smoke flavor and natural casings, but had also been cut into small pieces instead of served whole or half. Turkey came from an all breast products.
Brunswick stew was my favorite side dish, with rich stock. Red potato salad and sweet corn appeared to be homemade and sliced off the cob respectively. Smokey baked beans were mixed with sweet sauce and lots of meat. Creamy coleslaw deviated from Southern barbecue style manuals and missed the acid kick of vinegar one expects. Green beans tasted tinny. French fries were served in generous portions. I tried five sauces and found them all so sweet that I couldn’t even ask about desserts. Prices were in line with the genre locally. Sandwiches averaged about $7 and plates of meat with two sides ran $7 - $9. Combo platters ranged $10 - $14.
Bottom Line — Seven years ago, this would have been the best barbecue in greater Des Moines. This year, it’s the third best new barbecue to open in West Des Moines, after The Q and BBQ 2Die4.
Side Dishes
Prairie Meadows is taking reservations for their holiday buffets. Prices range from $8 - $25 for various buffets on Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day. Call 967-8575. CV
Caption: Bandana’s
4570 University Ave., West Des Moines, 327-0100
Sun. - Thurs. 11 a.m. - 9 p.m., Fri. - Sat. 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.
